Two cousins of the same dish: the Japanese chawanmushi, set firm and seasoned with dashi; the Korean gyeran-jjim, fluffier and risen like a soufflé in a small clay pot. Both rely on the same trick — gentle heat, and the patience to keep the steam from boiling.
Heat is the whole game. A hard boil under the steamer drives the egg proteins to overcook and squeeze out water — you get a pockmarked, weeping custard. Keep the water at a lazy simmer, lid ajar, and you'll be rewarded with a smooth, glossy surface that catches the light.
Ratios: 1 part egg to 3 parts liquid (by volume) gives the silken, just-set chawanmushi texture. Drop to 1 : 1.5 for a fluffier gyeran-jjim — and skip the steamer: pour into a small earthenware pot (ttukbaegi), cover, and cook directly over medium-low heat, stirring once or twice in the first minute. It will rise like a soufflé.
No bonito or kombu? Use a teaspoon of instant dashi powder dissolved in hot water, or — for a Korean-leaning version — anchovy stock (myeolchi yuksu) made by simmering dried anchovies and a square of kelp for 10 minutes.